Friday, April 25, 2025

Panama: Bocas Del Toro Day 1

Original date of travel: Wed. April 2-Tues. April 8 

I've had a few weeks to process this living situation, but I am still not fully there. In fact, I might have been subconsciously procrastinating writing about our experience in Bocas to avoid my confused feelings related to our situation. I feel guilty for my negative feelings. I want to put my mind so much on the positives: like HELLO! I have this incredible opportunity to even BE HERE! But when I start digging in it seems there are only complaints upon complaints. I want to be open about the experience, but I also don't want to turn this post into a pity party or Debbie downer so I'll compromise? I will thank my readers for forgiving me of my humanity while also limiting my complaints or at least trying to put a lighthearted spin on it. I in NO way want the voice of the writing to come across as ungrateful or entitled. That's my biggest fear.

Looking back? At first, those first two days? I was all in. I told myself to keep my chin up; this wasn't the end of the world. I could do this. I could "rough it" for a week. No problem. If I kept a good attitude, this would be a great time. It was like the rest of our travels. However, I underestimated a couple things: 1. My resolve was already running thin after our basic amenities in Puerto Viejo AND 2. I had a health issue arise without understanding the significance of it at the time.

I know I'm a bit of a city girl even though in previous decades of my life, I tried on the country girl style hardcore but at the end of the day, I'm city. I do enjoy adventuring into the outdoors and there probably isn't much I won't try once, especially if I have time to get used to the idea. I also love BOTH the city and country for playing. I love the tranquility and easy natural environment I find in the country, most especially if I have to navigate traffic. The NOISE of traffic generally doesn't bother me in the city. In fact, I find that energy refreshing. It's great to have that contrast of quiet and noise as a reminder of all the things both the city and country have to offer. I find myself wanting a dwelling in both. Maybe it's my British blood. There are just so many conveniences to being in the city. Something about this place, meaning Bocas del Toro, didn't work for me and it didn't work for my kids too much either, especially Craig. You'd think the beach being across the street would make up for it, but Ismito beach wasn't one to impress.

As a sidenote: my mom knows a family whose son is on a mission in the Marshall Islands. It is completely primitive. I think he has mostly lived in a tent and going without shoes is a thing; they also where skirts because it's so hot. They cook daily on a campfire. Based on how Craig experience Bocas, I think a mission to the Marshall Islands would stretch him, maybe too much. That's what I think today; doesn't mean that won't change in the future or maybe I misread the situation. Maybe it was my attitude? Maybe it trickled down? 

Looking in hindsight, somehow the pictures on the Airbnb don't seem completely accurate but I can't pinpoint why. Check it out and compare for yourselves. Artist's House on the Sea - Houses for Rent in Bocas del Toro, Panama, Panama - Airbnb

Everything in the place felt old, like visiting my grandpa's barn or shed. Its comparative to how an older person keeps their stuff around just because "it still works" even though it really needs replaced? Maybe they can afford to get a new one but maybe most really can't afford it. Think when you go to antique stores and there are vintage kitchen appliances probably cleared out of someone's deceased aged family members musty house?  Is it that as people get older, they pick and choose what to be "forward thinking" about or they are only forward thinking about the things that become necessary to function in modern life? Will this be me? Living here felt like we were living outside with some walls and a roof around us. It was hot, humid, and we had to use mosquito nets at night over the bed which, I confess, is tricky when two people share a bed. Also, it rained for two and half days straight so there was not a chance laundry on the line was going to dry and even the stuff still packed in our suitcases collected moisture from the air. 


The entrance walkway down to the treehouse. It was tricky getting our heavy bags down the narrow path. Kudos to Clark's and Craig's brute strength for hauling the bags in and then out again, not to mention carrying them all up the SPRIRAL stairs without banister rails. Hint: One day, I might have ALMOST dropped the keys (into the lagoon) while coming down those stairs.


You can't tell from this picture, but to the left here the neighbor had their own sizeable junk yard.

A closer view of the mangroves.





The water is pretty clear. The only time we saw it murky was after the heavy rains, but it cleared up pretty quickly. Don't let it full you. All the gray water from the houses drains directly into the bay. When the toilets flush or laundry is running, you can hear the water rushing out.


A view of the "neighborhood".

The now derelict swimming pool filled with sea water to discourage mosquito reproduction. 

The view...the host's "house". There is a small rudimentary industrial lift that he uses to get up the second floor.

Clark had a great time figuring out fishing with a hand line. His goal was to catch the barracuda patrolling the area.

A monk fish. For me? Gross.




Hunting and Gathering:

This signifies one of my observations about the little bit of Central America I've seen so far...is it a judgement statement to use the term "old fashioned"? What term comes to the reader's mind?

One of our hobbies for our trip has become discovering what different flavors of Fanta exist in the places we visit; flavors typically unavailable in the USA (unless it can be ordered on Amazon?)

Panamanian salsa



Our first afternoon in Bocas, we found this typical soda near the treehouse. Stewed chicken, rice, and ensalada. Have I mentioned that we know what will come out on the plate as "ensalada"? I always forgot to ask ahead of time...

This is a sort of banana fritter. I enjoyed it. Kind of like having dessert built in.








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