We waffled around about whether to visit San Blas. In part, because of the cost, in part because we had alot of beach in Bocas, in part because we were just plain tired (and I was sick). San Blas has a 3-4 hour arrival time, meaning between driving for 2 and a half hours and riding the boat, we would have to meet our driver at 5 am and then leave the islands by 3:30. Was it worth the time and cost? Looking through blog posts and reading reviews put some doubt in my mind. The drive is described as curvy and in fact, the tour company's disclaimer is full of language like "if you are into adventure, this might not be for you", "be sure to take motion sickness meds" and "amenities are basic at best and rustic at worst". I knew I didn't want to stay overnight. I definitely had my fill of "rustic accommodations" between our week at Puerto Viejo and Bocas.
Also, some of the tours or activities we had paid for, both in CR and Bocas, didn't necessarily live up to the hype as the tour operators had presented it. Some things had the ring of false advertising. An example is when we took our 3-stop island hopping tour at Bocas and weren't informed we needed tickets in advance to what I am now confident is the most beautiful beach in Bocas. Being so close yet so far really stuck with me.
In the end, we made a last-minute decision to book San Blas for a day trip and risk the money. It ended up costing us a couple hundred less than our tour to Cano Island in Costa Rica so what the heck? I am so glad we did. For me, it was the best beach, water, and snorkeling of our entire trip. It was completely worth the money and a return trip to PC to visit San Blas would make a wonderful vacation just to stay on the islands, see more islands and just relax at the beach. The place combines the right amount of beauty and that "get away from it all" feel that we had at Tortuguero but at San Blas you can get in the water and as one guy we met poimted out, "there's no chitras aka mosquitos and sand flies". He has a real point there! Bocas and Costa Rica had the mozzies and they were cruel!
The drive ended up being what Costa Rica already trained us for: super curvy, windy, in the mountains, which are beautiful by the way, but with much less traffic. We had to go through some check points because the islands are owned and maintained by the indigenous people called Gunas (think Indian nations); they have their own government and laws. Their name for San Blas is Guna Yula. The ride also provided us with the wonderful travel experience of meeting other people like us, who are out to see the world.
On the way up, we shared our SUV with a couple from Madrid and on the way back the couple was from Columbia. The couple from Madrid weren't really into socializing with us too much aka language barrier but we listened to a lively conversation in Spanish between them and the driver about the wildlife of Panama. The couple on the way home were more open but unfortunately, the lady became car sick very soon into the drive. I offered all the tools I had brought with me. Eventually after dry heaving on the side of the road, she found some relief with the ginger candy I offered. The man was ok with the peppermint gum. While the lady (his wife) tried to doze off her sickness in the open window, we had a lively conversation about all sorts of things so we could practice our new language skills: English for him and Spanish for me.
He said I had the face of a teacher. I didn't know there was a such thing? He said my face looked patient, but my family wouldn't back him up on that!! Rude right? Haha! j/k They know me best; I save all my patience for my students and sometimes even that runs out.
We discussed raising children and even a little religion. This will be recalled as a reflection: the next morning I had a thought about the nature of God.
We discussed traveling into Costa Rica and why Colombians can't easily do that. The Costa Rican government limits the travel because Colombians have been known to go to Costa Rica as loophole to enter the USA. To preserve their relations to the USA, necessary since we provide our military for their protection, Costa Rica is careful with their visas.
Sadly, I didn't get the guy's name. That bothers me. Why is it sometimes so much easier to be open with strangers versus the people we live with every day? Anyways, in my thoughts I wish him and his wife all the best in the life they are choosing to create.
Beautiful scenery of the Panamanian countryside on our way to Guna Yula.
Up in the mountains
The checkpoint. Zoom in to check out the tribal clothes.
Road is rougher here.
A sign depicting the national pride of the Gunas successful revolutionary war to earn their independence from Panama.
We waited under this shelter while the daily morning shower poured itself out.
On the water. Funny story: the kid has two parents on either side of him. They were Europeans. The dad discovered it was fun to stick his hand in the wake then the mom did it too. The thing is when you stick your hand in the wake, the person behind you gets soaked. Thankfully the kid noticed and mentioned it to his mom. But by then Clark was already soaked. The dad didn't get me too wet.
Another passing boat.
Pulling up to an island to collect more passengers. When you stay on an island overnight, you can catch passing boats to go explore other islands during the daytime and the boat returns you to your cabin in the afternoon.
Pulling away after some people boarded.
If you zoom in, I think there is a little girl in only underwear on the beach. She intently watched us as we drove away. I like the green boat floating there too. Both depict the isolation of the place.
The wake was high! One part of the disclaimer was that we would GET WET on the boat ride and to be prepared with waterproofing our belongings.
A tiny island.
Another island. Each one is owned by a single Guna family.
Pulling up to our first island we would explore for a couple hours and eat a casado lunch cooked by the Guna family.
Under the awning of the restaurant deck.
Pano of a beach along the perimeter trail.
Looking towards the interior. You can see the other side of the island through the trees. These are small islands!
Along the trail. This was my favorite island we visited of the three we saw that day.
Interesting sea stone.
Unbelievable sand and sea. This is whitest sand I've ever seen!
Pristine!
View of the interior from the water.
Check out the visibility.
At first, I didn't notice the shadow of the palm, but once I saw it, I decided to see what shots I could get. Love this one.
Fun in the sun.
Sea plants on the bottom. The bottom is probably around 3 to 4 four feet. The water is like lookinng through glass.
Can you imagine yourself hanging around here for an afternoon?
Necessary selfie
While waiting for lunch I snapped this photo of the Guna waitress. This might actually be considered disrespectful. I read they don't like to be photographed. The yellow bands around her calves are stacks of beaded bracelets and her shirt is sewn with a mola. Read about molas
here and
here. Or google it up. Molas are for sale everywhere around Panama City. I bought a few while I was on the islands though. I wanted to be sure they were authentic.
After lunch we were told to board the boat for the next destination which was the Sunken Pool. This is a large shallow sunken sandbar in the middle of the ocean where we could view starfish. The guides failed to give the tourists directions for how NOT to handle the sea stars. One lady picked one up and held it in the air for everyone to see and I swear the guide about fainted. Once the guide made it over to her, she had realized her mistake and replaced the star where she found it, however she earned herself a stern lecture from the guide about the delicate nature of the wildlife.
The pool was large. There were multiple boats stopped there, and we had plenty of space to roam around without being in anyone's way.
An island with a hotel type structure. Sign me up please!
Our next island was named Perro, as in Dog. We were told by the tour company we were going to have an opportunity to snorkel around a sunken ship, but the guides didn't point it out to us. We almost missed it. Craig saved the day by being curious about a flagpole looking object sticking out of the water. That was the prow of the ship! It was the most AMAZING experience! The wreckage was huge and there was an unending stream of all different types of coral and sea life everywhere under the water as we swam along. We all agreed with Craig that we could have spent a few hours here, snorkeling, relaxing, and snorkeling some more.
Our last stop was very near to Isla Perro. That group of trees in the distance is the Dog Island.
On the beach trail around the perimeter, between cabins.
A fallen fruit.
Same type of fruit but rotten and squished.
Leaf art in nature.
After dropping off our passengers.
Good-bye for now San Blas! Thanks for the most magnificent day at the beach this girl has known!
